Getting There By Water
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The Bosphorus Strait divides Istanbul into its eastern Asian side and its western European side. Central Istanbul, including the historic sites, is on the European side. This quarter is itself divided almost in two by the natural harbour of the Golden Horn (Haliç). Tiny fishing boats and day cruisers share the Bosphorus with enormous international cargo ships, navy vessels, tankers and giant luxury liners from Europe, all overseen by the port authority, Turkish Maritime Lines (tel: (212) 244 0207 or 249 9222; website: www.tdi.com.tr).
The two largest ports, Eminönü and Karaköy, are on opposite sides of the Golden Horn but are linked by the Galata Bridge. Karaköy (tel: (212) 249 5776) is where luxury cruise ships headed for the Aegean and Mediterranean dock, as well as smaller CIS vessels. The major commuter ferry lines (see Public Transport in the Getting Around section) mainly depart from Eminönü, Karaköy, Besiktas and Üsküdar. Facilities at these various ports are virtually non-existent and are often little more than a ticket office. Nearby, however, there are almost always outdoor markets, food stalls (some of which float), toilets and the ubiquitous shoe shiners.
Ferry and boat services: Turkish Maritime Lines (see above) provides car and passenger ferry services from the Kabatas dock (between Karaköy and Besiktas) eastwards along the Black Sea, departing at 1400 and stopping at Sinop, Samsun, Ordu, Giresun, Zonguldak, Rize and Trabzon over three days. It then returns by the same route, arriving back in Istanbul on Friday at 1230. An overnight car ferry service from Istanbul to Izmir leaves the Sarayburnu docks at 1500 April 5-Oct 20, 1730 July 5-Aug 30 (journey time approximately 19 hours). The return voyage leaves Izmir on Sunday at 1400 and arrives in Istanbul at 0900. There are also weekend routes to the Marmara islands and specialist cruises available along the Black Sea, the Aegean and to Venice.
Faster, more expensive sea-buses (tel: (216) 410 6633 or (212) 249 1558; website: www.ido.com.tr) connect Istanbul to Yalova, Çinarcik, the Princes Islands, Bandirma and the Marmara Islands. These depart from Kabatas dock on a changing seasonal schedule.
Transport to the city: Both Eminönü and Karaköy ports and all the ferry terminals and quays around them, have rows of buses, taxis and dolmus lined up outside. Taking the gloriously air-conditioned tram or a taxi is probably the easiest method of reaching the main tourist areas, especially from Eminönü, which is also at the heart of the city and within easy and pleasant walking distance to Sultanahment, through the many markets.
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