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Getting Around
Public Transport
There are numerous private and state-owned city buses (tel: (212) 245 0720; website: www.iett.gov.tr) in Istanbul. However, because of perpetual traffic jams, these are slow, uncomfortable and usually overcrowded, with services coming to a virtual halt at midnight. A slick, new underground (metro) system from Taksim to Levent, the city’s busiest business district, opened in 2000 (website: www.metropla.net/eu/ist/istanbul.htm). Hours of operation are 0600-0200.
There are two tramways on the European side. A quick, modern commuter tram runs from Eminönü through Sultanahmet and onto outlying suburbs. It divides at Aksaray, where travellers should change trains to get to Esenler Otogar, the bus station. The other, referred to as the Nostaljik Tramvay, clatters slowly the length of Istiklal Caddesi from Beyoglu to Taksim Square and back in turn-of-the-century trams. It is connected to Karaköy by the Tünel underground, built in 1877 and touted as the shortest in the world, which runs up and down the steep hill between Karaköy and the Istiklal Caddesi. Both the Tünel and the Nostaljik Tramway operate from 0700 to 2130.
Metro and tramway information is available (tel: (212) 568 9970; website: www.istanbul-ulasim.com.tr).
Passenger ferries (tel: (212) 244 4233, website: www.tdi.com) are by far the most pleasant way to travel in Istanbul. These zip back and forth across the waterways and serve many useful destinations. Tokens are bought from dockside kiosks. The primary routes run roughly every 20 minutes, between approximately 0700 and 2300, although the Eminönü–Kadiköy service stops at 2000. There are numerous docks along Eminönü quay, including ferries to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Besiktas, and car ferries to the Prince’s Islands. Services from Karaköy run to Haydarpasa Station and the residential suburb of Kadiköy.
A collection small, private operators run the boat service between Üsküdar and Besiktas, which departs every ten minutes during the day and whenever it fills up after midnight. Prices are the same as for the state ferries, although these accept cash only.
Bus, metro, ferry and tram tickets, costing approximately US$0.35-0.55 each, are usually available near the main stops, either from a kiosk, all main bus and metro stops and ferry terminals or a private seller, who adds about 25% to the price. An akbil (electronic token) is available for purchase in advance. This is valid for a number of journeys, at a slightly better rate and is good for buses, ferries, the Tünel, and the metro.
Taxis
Yellow taxis line up in ranks in front of ferry terminals and can be hailed almost anywhere in the street. However, it is safest for tourists to order them from a hotel, which minimises the chance of being cheated. The meters should begin at approximately US$0.50 between 0600 and 2400, going up 50% after midnight. Visitors should watch for drivers trying to put the night meter on during the day. ‘Gündüz’ means day and ‘gece’ night and these words should be digitally displayed on the meter. Alternatively, one light indicates the day meter and two lights the night meter. It also pays to have some understanding of Turkish currency before handing over a large note and expecting change, which is a perpetual problem for Istanbul drivers. Tips are not expected unless special service has been provided and there is no extra charge for more than one person or for luggage.
The dolmus (shared taxi) is a large, modern yellow mini-van, which runs a prescribed, short, circular route, such as Taksim–Besiktas and Taksim–Nisantasi, or a smaller, rackety blue minibus, which does longer journeys within the city and suburbs. Passengers can hail the latter almost anywhere and it will cram as many standing passengers in as can possibly fit. Payment is in cash, upon boarding, costing about the same price as a bus ticket.
There is also a Marine Taxi service (tel: (212) 287 1121) available from Bebek, an upmarket Bosphorus village above Arnavütköy.
Limousines
The Conrad International Hotel, in Besiktas (tel: (212) 227 3000, ext. 4061), offers limousine services in the city, with multilingual drivers. Prices start at US$39 for one hour, up to US$200 for eight hours. DTLS Limousines (tel: (212) 258 0125; fax (212) 261 6633; e-mail: dtlslimousine@turk.net; website: www.dtlstravel.com) offers the same services at slightly cheaper rates.
Driving in the City
Istanbul is home to bad traffic jams and extreme examples of bad driving, while Turkey as a whole has 14 times the number of accidents than there are in the UK – driving is thus not recommended to tourists. Although a dramatic increase in fines and enforcement have improved matters somewhat, indicators are still rarely used, drivers almost never stop at pedestrian crossings and tailgating is standard. Racing along the coastal strip of Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side has led to some widely publicised deaths and, despite a government campaign urging: ‘Don’t be a Traffic Monster!’ it is not a good idea for foreigners to take the risks or endure the hassle of driving in Istanbul unless strictly necessary.
Car Hire
Hiring a car for a visit to Istanbul is not advised, due to the enormous traffic congestion within the city, which is worsening yearly. For the adventurous, car hire is provided by Avis (tel: (212) 663 0646; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (212) 296 3196 or 253 9200; website: www.budget.com), Europcar (tel: (212) 663 0858 or 254 7799; website: www.europcar.com) and Hertz (tel: (212) 234 4304; website: www.hertz.com). Rates start at about US$75 a day or US$300 a week.
Drivers must be over 21 years, have held a licence for at least one year and have a credit card or substantial sum of money to leave as a deposit. Basic insurance is covered in the cost, although visitors should make sure that Collision Damage Waiver is included, as it may well be needed.
Bicycle/Scooter Hire
Cycling in the city is not recommended and this is best left for resort destinations.
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