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Nightlife
Beyoglu has been the site of drinking, dancing, theatre, debauchery and other non-Muslim pastimes in Istanbul for centuries. Although it developed a reputation for seediness in the 1980s, Istanbul’s huge youth population and the spirit of liberalism has ensured the district’s recovery, with the clip joints and strip clubs rolling back off Istiklal Caddesi to make room for more nightclubs, wine bars and jazz venues. Technically, the drinking age is 18 years but identity cards are rarely checked and there is a noticeable, even irritating, quantity of teenagers who think nothing of shelling out cover charges well over the European norm.
Drinks prices charged in venues vary hugely. The cheapest tavernas or meyhanes, such as those in the Fish Market, sell a big bottle of Efes Pils for about US$1. In nightclubs or live music bars, however, you can pay three to five times that amount. Cover charges for live music are often not displayed but turn up suddenly on your bill. Meyhanes tend to close at 2400, bars at 0100 or 0200, while clubs can stay open as late as 0600 on the weekend. Visitors would be advised to avoid the seedier venues in the back alleys off Istiklal Caddesi and to be cautious if a new acquaintance suggests a venue. Many strip shows or belly-dancing clubs operate a system whereby unsuspecting visitors will be expected to pick up a huge tab for women who somehow end up at their table all night.
The Guide Istanbul (website: www.theguideturkey.com) provides up-to-date information on the latest bars and clubs.
Bars: For a relaxed drink, small bistros – such as Kaktüs and Cadde-i Kebir in Imam Adnan Sokak or Cafe Urban, a converted Art Deco Jewish patisserie tucked in an alleyway off Istiklal Caddesi/Turnacibasi Sokak, at Kartal Sokak 6 – are mid-priced European-style outfits serving espresso, light meals and drinks. Pia, located at Bekar Sokak and Istiklal Caddesi, is another good bet. Situated above Kaktüs, Ora is a studenty, Anatolian-style bar with cheap meals, cheap beer and traditional Turkish instruments hanging on the wall, available for anyone who feels like striking up a tune. Hayal Kahvesi, Büyükparmakkapi Sokak 19, is a café-bar during the day and live music venue from 2300, when a cover charge comes into effect. Bilsak 5, Soganci Sokak 7, off Sirasilveler Caddesi, is a relaxed, mixed gay/straight bar frequented by artsy types.
Casinos: Gambling is illegal in Turkey, due to its association with organised crime.
Clubs: Istanbul’s clubs are for the young and rich and are often shockingly expensive. The city looks to out sparkle Ibiza in the plethora of high-class clubs that continue to open on the Bosphorus ‘strip’ – Muallim Naci Caddesi, between Kurucesme and Ortakoy. Club 29, located in Ulus Park, is the most glamorous of these, with an open-air dancefloor holding 1000 people (summer only). Similarly, Chinawhite, Muallim Naci Caddesi 120, in Ortakoy, is Istanbul’s most exclusive UK-based club, with a strict door policy. People, also situated on Naci Caddesi, is an outdoor dance club with Bosphorus views (open June-September). Nu Pera and Nu Teras are both based at Mesrutiyet 147 – the former is open in the summer, with great views over the Bosphorus, the latter in winter. Based in a historic building, the club plays hip hop and underground in a New York-style ambience. The famous Zihni Bar, situated nearby at Mesrutiyet 119, also commands a fabulous Bosphorus view and is frequented by stockbrokers. Milk, behind St Antoine’s Church, Akarsu Sokak 5, is primarily a gay/straight techno bar hosting local and foreign DJs and Switch, Muammer Karaca Çikmazi 3, is its main ‘underground’ competitor. It is worth noting that most dance clubs in Istanbul close over August.
Live music: Babylon, Seybender Sokak, in Asmalimescit (website: www.babylon-ist.com), puts on adventurous experimental and jazz concerts. For live jazz, Gramofon, Tünel Square, is the best and, for Latin music, Q’bana’s, Muallim Naci Caddesi 138, in Ortaköy, is an upmarket alternative. Roxy, at Arslan Yatagi, off Sirasilveler Caddesi, features live Turkish and international dance bands. The Kerem Gorsev Jazz Bar, situated in the Milli Reassurans Mall, in Macka, is run by a well known Turkish jazz musician, who also runs the outdoor, upmarket Latino Club, on the grounds of the Conrad Hotel, in Besiktas, during summer. HIP Productions (website: www.hippro.com) is involved in a number of concerts and clubs, as well as an alternative music festival in June and an international techno festival in September. Pozitif Promotions (website: www.pozitif-ist.com), which runs Babylon, puts on the Akbank Jazz Festival in October, the Efes Pilsen International Blues Festival from late October to early November. Park Orman, Buyukdere Caddesi Maslak, is a vast park complex with various restaurants, clubs, sports facilities and music venues both indoors and open air, in a forest setting. The venue hosts the J&B Techno Festival, every September, as well as an increasing number of music events throughout the year.
For traditional music, check out bars and meyhanes advertising fasil, or classical romantic singing. Patrons of Café Masala, gathered in the shadow of the Blue Mosque, off Mimar Mehmet Aga Sokak, in Sultanahmet, can enjoy low-key traditional Turkish music with their apple tea and hookah pipes, as well as twice nightly appearances by whirling dervishes. Alcohol is not served here because of the proximity to the mosque but the view of the gloriously illuminated minarets towering overhead more than makes up for this.
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