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Shopping
Istanbul has been a shopper’s paradise for more than 1500 years, famed as the trading point connecting the Silk Road from China with Europe. Visitors tend to flock to the famous Grand Bazaar in Beyazit (open 0700-1900, Monday to Saturday), with its Ottoman atmosphere and cool covered streets (see Further Distractions). The Grand Bazaar is a good place to get an overview of the goods available and the variety of prices, however, rents are quite high within the complex and better bargains can often be found in the smaller shopping areas of Sultanahmet and Beyazit. Likewise, the famous Spice Bazaar in Eminönü is a must see, if only for the mountains of Turkish Delight. Outside of the state-owned markets, most shops stay open as long as there are customers, although the official opening hours are Monday to Saturday 0900-1800. Even at midnight, however, there are traders on the main pedestrian thoroughfares selling toys, socks, black market CDs and even antiques laid out on the ground.
As a designated tourist quarter, the Sultanahmet area is perhaps the most competitive in terms of price and variety of specialised goods, such as carpets, kilims, silver jewellery and collector’s items. For a more authentic atmosphere, however, Istanbul’s many street markets are well worth a look. The farmers’ market to the right of the Spice Bazaar, is where shoppers can taste the cheeses and olives, while the enormous Kadiköy market on Tuesday, takes place near Fenerbahçe Stadium. There is also a flea market here at the weekend. On Sunday, the restored harbour area at Ortaköy is taken over by a craft and antique market.
Çukurcuma (along Turnacibasi Sokak, off Istiklal Caddesi) is the heart of the antiques district. Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu and Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian side have the most fashion boutiques and department stores, while the old-money neighbourhood of Tesvikye/Nisantasi is where Turkey’s top designers have their outlets. Good streets to try are those around Valikonagi and Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi. Huge shopping malls tend to be found in the suburbs, such as Galleria, in Ataköy, and Akmerkez, in Etiler.
Typical Turkish gifts include wooden boxes of Turkish Delight, delicate albeit cheap tea sets, spice trays and boxes of granulated apple tea. A blue ‘eye’ talisman is highly indicative of the city – almost every shop, home and room is equipped with one.
Value-added tax (KDV) varies from 18% to 23%, although foreign passport holders are exempt in the specially designated tourist shops, which issue a specific invoice that can be presented at customs for refunds. In most cases, however, tax is taken right off the bill. Visitors should always make sure to get an invoice for items that could be considered ‘antique’, as the penalty for smuggling antiquities is very high and customs officials are often poorly informed as to what constitutes an antique.
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